Name: Brand, Cave De Turckheim

Region: France, Alsace, Grand Cru Classe

Grape: Gewurtztraminer

Vintage: 2006

Deep, yellow colour with a pinch of gold.  Heavy and aromatic on the nose. Typical gewürztraminer aromas – lichee fruit and rose petals – enriched with sweet spices and orange zest. The mouth has an oily feeling to it – strong and uncompromising. Well-defined sweetness balanced with good acidity. Wood notes in the finish – vanilla, sweet herbs, a hint of licorice. 13% of alcohol is noticeable – too noticeable in my opinion – even when served chilled.

The wine easily coped with creamy, aromatic dishes of Indian cuisine that it was served with. Drunk on its own, it became a bit too heavy and alcoholic. I believe that’s typical of wines from Alsace. Personally, I prefer gewürztraminer in its lighter, less importunate version.

A Spanish children’s book “El Estornino Saturnino en la Tierra del Vino “ (The Gloomy Starling in Wine Country) showing a whole year of work in the vineyard won an award in Paris during Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2009. The author, Judith Sáenz de Tejada promotes wines and  lifestyle of the Spanish Rioja region. To do this she quit her job in Madrid and moved to Rioja. ‘In my opinion, that cocktail of wine and culture is all part of the same view of life: love for our past, for the earth and for people.’ She told the San Sebastian newspaper DiarioVasco. The book comes with an English translation and shows the winemaking process through the eyes of a wounded starling who accompanies Ponciano, the winemaker, during his work in the vineyard and winery.

source: decanter.com

Name: Les Molinieres

Region: France, AC Cotes du Rhone Villages

Grape variety: Probably based on Grenache

Vintage: 2007

Beautiful colour – dark, shiny ruby red with a purple Hue on the edge. Deep and sunny on the nose. Has a nice feel of dark, forest fruits, wild and black berries, a delicate herby note and lots of warmth. Very smooth and pleasant on the mouth in balance with relatively high acidity. Medium body and nice roundness. 14% of alcohol doesn’t show on the mouth. Tannins are silky smooth.

 A very nice wine – to begin with a nice label design, nice hue, nice nose and smooth mouth feel. Well built moderate and balanced. No big emotions, simple pleasure.

In a significant expression of unity, five competing New World wine-producing countries will be collaborating to present a combined show at one of the most important international wine trade events next year.  Argentina, California, Chile, New Zealand and South Africa are all members of the recently formed New World Wine Alliance who will be joining forces to showcase their wines at Germany’s annual ProWein in March next year.

 The alliance marks a world first in the wine industry for competitor countries to operate as a team in this way.

 All five regions have continued to grow exports despite the global credit crisis and believe that by working in concert they stand a better chance of competing against the EU, whose own wine-producing members are supported by substantial subsidies in their international marketing initiatives.

 Australia, which is reportedly now focusing more on the East, has not joined the alliance.

 The five generic marketing bodies representing the five New World Alliance partners are optimistic about the initiative and believe their combined efforts in promoting the New World as a premium source of wines and as a network of innovation, will generate worldwide interest amongst media and trade at ProWein.

 All five countries have succeeded in building their wine trades on the back of aggressive branding; by demystifying wine and thus attracting new consumers; by playing up their regional strengths and unique features and by focusing on technical, packaging and marketing innovation, while giving increasing accent to sustainable wine-growing and wine production.

According to a spokesman for the Alliance, there had been exploratory talks amongst New World producers for several years about establishing a stand-alone show targeted at the international wine trade.  However, recent research had suggested that with so many shows already in place, the alliance would be better served by creating a show within a show, using the well-established platform of ProWein.

 Held annually in Dusseldorf, ProWein hosted some 3 200 exhibitors in 2009 and also succeeded in attracting over 35 000 delegates from 50 countries, plus more than 1 000 journalists.

 At ProWein in March 2010, the five alliance partners will be grouped together in a single hall.  They intend to jointly offer a series of seminars, lectures, presentations and workshops featuring high-level wine trade and academic specialists as well as prominent growers and wine makers under the umbrella theme, Down to Earth.  Issues they plan to cover include sustainable wine production, the management of scarce natural resources and managing climate change, cool-climate  viticulture, organic wines, branding, icon wines, building on-trade consumption sales and the importance of unique grape varietals.

 The spokesman added: “Although we remain competitors, we believe the potential exists to further advance the New World’s share of the global wine market by sharing best practice.  We have already benefitted from each other enormously by exchanging viticultural and cellar research as well as innovations in packaging, marketing and logistics.”

 Exports from this group continue to prosper despite the economic slowdown in the global wine market. Export data for 2008 shows:

 Last year, Argentina exported 23,8 million 9-litre cases worth US$550m, representing an increase of 14% in volume and 28% in value on 2007. California exported 55 million cases worth over US$1billion, an increase of 8% in volume and 6% in value, and Chile exported 65,4 million cases worth US$1,4billion, an increase of 10% in value but a 3% decrease in volume. New Zealand exports rose 19% to 10,9 million cases, at a value of US$574m, representing an increase of 19%.  South Africa’s exports rose 32% in volume to 45,2 million cases, worth US$778m, up 47% in value.

Tratoria.pl

Name: Chateau Ferrand

From : France, Bordeaux, AC Pomerol

Variety: Merlot, Cabernet Fanc

Vintage: 2005

Price:  15 Euro.

The wine is dark, shiny and intriguing. Deep and intensive nose. First it strikes you with the scent of forest fruits, black berries, wild berries.  After 2-3 hours the character changes – the aroma of old wine appears (even though the wine isn’t old at all), one I can’t really describe. Something that reminds me of wild berry jam with notes of smoke, a shadow of chocolate-covered plums, sweet spices and the aroma of wood hovering over it. The mouth doesn’t bring this kind of emotions. At first try the acidity is a bit overwhelming. When your pallet gets used to it a pleasant, smooth texture shows itself.  The wine has a nice silky feeling on the tongue. The impression is spoiled by a herbal and slightly bitter finish. The tannins are still green and a bit harsh.

I opened the wine during the show about merlot. I wanted to use it as an example for the characteristics of this grape variety – its roundness, mild acidity and soft tannins. It didn’t work – the taste was full of alcohol and harsh acidity. But it’s not the fault of the wine. The wine was served too warm and the bottle opened a few years to early. The presence of Cabernet Franc in the blend isn’t without a significance either. The producer claims that he used this grape to bring out the floral and fruitiness in the wine. I was left with just the green floral notes. Later, at home after bringing the wine to the right temperature, the wine toned down a bit and gained some elegance. The acidity was no longer acrid, the unpleasant taste of alcohol disappeared  and the nose developed wonderfully. Unfortunately, the mouth lacked depth, though the texture was pretty soft and smooth. I have a feeling it’s a very good wine which should have been left in the cellar for a couple of years longer.

 

A short vacation in Tokaj (Hungary) resulted in a show about the beautiful sweet wines of this region.  Enjoy a short video clip I recorded while walking around Tokaj’s vineyards on a lovely Saturday morning.

Maciek Klimowicz

From : Italy, Sicily, IGT

Variety: Grillo

Vintage: 2005

Price:  60 zł

The wine  has a nice, slightly golden color, a notch darker than the one I’m used to seeing in white wines. At first the nose reminds me of sweet wines form Jurancon or Monbazillac but after the first sip it brings sherry to mind. There’s a pinch of nuts here, mushrooms, curry, apricots. Some sun, dirt and hey – a true beauty. Mouth surprises with its dryness but with each sip it becomes more enjoyable. A bit oily on the tongue and with all these interesting aromas and tastes it’s still very smooth. A toned down acidity, good balance, a pleasant, warm finish. An interesting wine. Lovely color, great nose and smooth mouth. Character of late summer, early autumn. Full of character. 

 

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